The DB28XP Starry Sky represents one of the purest expressions of De Bethune’s modern watchmaking philosophy. Combining the maison’s floating-lug architecture, ultra-thin XP construction and signature heat-blued titanium dial, it balances technical innovation with a striking interpretation of the night sky.
Heritage and Craft
De Bethune’s origins lie in a determination to rethink traditional watchmaking rather than merely refine it, and the DB28XP is perhaps the purest expression of that philosophy. For founder Denis Flageollet, watchmaking has always been a dialogue between historical craftsmanship and forward-looking experimentation. Rather than treating tradition as a fixed language, De Bethune uses it as a foundation for exploration — combining classical watchmaking disciplines, astronomical inspiration and modern materials to create timepieces that unite mechanical precision with artistic expression.
Launched in 2020 to mark the tenth anniversary of the original DB28, itself introduced in 2010, the XP line — “extra plat” — strips the design to essentials while pushing thinness further. The case measures 43 mm in diameter and just 7.2 mm thick, roughly 2 mm thinner than the standard DB28, yet it retains the crown at 12 o’clock and hunter-style solid caseback that nod to nineteenth-century pocket watches.
Remarkably thin in profile yet quietly complex in construction, it houses the calibre DB2115v7, a mechanical hand-wound movement measuring 30 mm across with 165 parts and 27 jewels. At its heart is the maison’s signature titanium balance wheel with white-gold inserts, patented in 2016 and optimised for temperature stability and reduced air resistance. This is paired with a De Bethune balance-spring featuring a flat terminal curve, and a silicon escape wheel. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a six-day power reserve via a self-regulating twin barrel, an innovation dating to 2004. De Bethune’s triple pare-chute shock-protection system further protects the balance.
One of De Bethune’s most distinctive innovations remains its floating-lug system, patented in 2006. Rather than fixing the lugs rigidly to the case, the maison mounts them on springs, allowing the watch to sit with ease on the wrist despite its generous presence. When introduced in 2010, the DB28 represented a significant departure from conventional high-watchmaking case architecture. Its suspended-lug system challenged the traditional relationship between case and wrist, prioritising ergonomics while creating a visual signature that became central to De Bethune’s identity.
Here the effect is softened further by the redesigned, slimmer lugs, the lightweight polished grade-5 titanium case with microlight decoration on the middle, and a black alligator strap with titanium buckle, giving the watch a presence that is at once sculptural and restrained. Water resistance is 3 ATM / 30 metres.
The Starry Sky dial is where the watch first draws the eye. De Bethune heat-blues the titanium before applying its proprietary microlight decoration — a system of micro-grooves that create peaks and valleys, refracting light in multiple dimensions and producing an optical effect closely associated with the maison. This microlight technique was introduced in 2007. Set against the deep blue titanium dial, individual white-gold pins are driven one by one by hand to form the stars. The constellation can be mapped to a chosen date, time and place; De Bethune then maps the corresponding sky. An aperture at 6 o’clock reveals the balance, framed by a chamfered polished steel rim. Polished pink-gold hands hover above a silver-toned hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals and a circular satin-brushed titanium minutes track, maintaining clarity without disturbing the sense of depth.
The Starry Sky concept captures one of De Bethune’s recurring themes: the meeting point between the poetic and the mechanical. The celestial dial evokes the romance of astronomy, yet its execution is rooted in precise engineering and painstaking craftsmanship. Each star is positioned by hand, transforming a scientific representation of the heavens into a personal interpretation of time itself.
The same meticulous approach carries through to the finishing. Polished titanium leaves nowhere to hide, so every surface, including the lugs and the solid caseback with its engraved blued titanium ring and microlight-decorated plate, is refined by hand.
Market Insights
Collector interest in the DB28XP Starry Sky has remained strong, reflecting demand for technical ambition matched by scarcity. Retail prices are around £80,000 ($107,000), while secondary-market examples have traded above that level; recent sales have ranged from roughly £85,000 to £110,000 ($114,000–$147,000), depending on condition and configuration. In a segment where many independents struggle to preserve value, that resilience stands out.
Three factors support the watch’s appeal. Production is limited, with De Bethune making only a small number of watches each year and the DB28XP ranking among its most sought-after pieces. Its floating-lug case and heat-blued dial give it immediate visual identity, while the maison’s standing among independent-watch collectors has helped sustain demand.
There are, of course, risks. The independent watch market can be volatile, and authenticity is especially important with models that feature distinctive dial work. Full documentation and reputable sources remain essential. Even so, the DB28XP has proved resilient, with values holding firm through broader market fluctuations. Waiting lists at authorised retailers have also pushed more buyers toward the secondary market.
Where It Stands
The DB28XP Starry Sky is a defining expression of De Bethune’s approach to independent watchmaking, reflecting the maison’s inventive spirit and distinctive creative identity.
